Thanksgiving in Valencia

I am a person who does not seem to know how to do things simply.  So Thanksgiving just had to be like the one I do back in LA.   I decided to do the apricot- glazed turkey with roasted onion and shallot gravy.  The recipe comes fromthe November 1994 issue of Bon Appétit.  While it is not difficult, the preparation is a bit time intensive.  Thus, Wednesday, I started my preparations of the glaze, herb butter and gravy.  I spent some time on the Internet and found a recipe for stuffing.  I actually found a skinnied-down recipe on the Weight Watchers site.  Then of course I added a few of my own touches and “fattened it up a bit” with apple and chopped dried apricots.  Then on to the sweet potato with honey, brown sugar, butter and segments of mandarin oranges. Not what you call your lo-cal dish.  This left me with only the turkey and mashed potato to prepare on Thursday.  My goal was to be able to relax and enjoy my guests on Thursday, and I succeeded.

Thursday brought with it a little surprise when I opened the white plastic bag in which the turkey came.  First out fell the feet.  Then as I lifted the rest of the bird out I saw the beak, the head and neck, still attached to the bird.  I must admit I usually let “Butterball” do the initial preparation of the turkey.  So out came the biggest knife I had.  Off with the head, off with the neck.  Then on to the interior of the bird to pull our all the other parts that were not in a neat little bag.  Once that was done the rest was easy.

To my delight the turkey cooked perfectly.  As it rested for the obligatory ½ hour, I popped the stuffing, sweet potato and mashed potato into the oven to reheat and brown up.  Happily Brian had offered to bring a healthy vegetable and the pies.  I cook but I do not bake.  So, my work was nearly done.  Only the gravy to finish off and that was the easiest and best gravy I’ve ever made.

At 2:30, Brian arrived with the most wonderful pumpkin pie I have ever eaten, a mango and passion fruit cream pie that was amazing and an asparagus and mushroom side dish that was just delicious.  To say he helped make this meal possible is to understate the case. In addition to the food, he lent me the roasting pan, baster, meat thermometer, tablecloth and napkins and several serving implements.  Shall we just say that my kitchen here is not quite as equipped as the one in LA.

A few minutes later Pepe arrived with wine and champagne and Vilma arrived with another bottle of wine.  We sat down to chat with beer or wine, some olives and a bit of pate.  When all was ready, we attacked the sideboard and dug in.  I was please to see that everyone but me went back for seconds.  I must admit, I had picked as I cooked, so wasn’t up to a second round.

Pepe

Vilma

Brian

The Cook enjoying herself

When we finished the main course Vilma jumped up, cleared the table and did the dishes.  What a sweet girl.  We moved over to the “living room”  (1 foot away for the table) and relaxed for a while.

Brian brought out the pies (sorry we forgot to take pictures) and they were as lovely to look at, as they were to eat.

A few coffees and then gin and tonic for Brian, Pepe and me and a Chinchon dulce for Marty and the meal was over at 6:00.  Sweet Vilma had passed up the after dinner drink and went on to wash the rest of the dishes.  We said our good-byes with besos y abrazos.

Happily I took it easy and read for much of the evening.  At one point Marty and I spent a little time on  “Face Time” with Rachel.  I later called my dad.  As my brother Bob was there with his IPad, we agreed to hang up and reconnect with “Face Time.”  It is so wonderful to not only talk to but see the family.  We had a wonderful day with new friends in a new place, but I couldn’t help but miss the family and old friends.

An early bedtime was in order as Friday we’d be getting up very early to head to the Comisaría de Policía to take the last step in the Visa  process.

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Lazy Day

After Sunday’s eating extravaganza, I decided that Monday would be a good day to take it easy.  I think my internal clock is finally on Spain time and I actually woke up at 8:00 am instead of my usual 5:00.  It was yet another rainy day, which I understand is very typical for November.  Seemed like a good time to do a little ironing and make a shopping list for Thanksgiving.    It is always interesting to discover what is readily available and what is not.  I have always just reached for one of those packages of stuffing mix for the bird.  Not this year.  A quick search on the Internet and I had a “from scratch” recipe.

As Marty passed la Fórcola earlier in the day he checked out the menu del día and it looked good.  Around 2 o’clock we decided to give it a try. Marty started with a “sin”(without), a bottle of non-alcoholic beer, and I opted for una copa de tinto.

As our primero we both ordered a delicious carpaccio of beef with thinly slice mushrooms and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Marty then selected the Pasta Carbonara. 

I went for a simple pollo al limón.   The chicken was infused with lemon that was just right – tangy but not overpowering.  Both of us couldn’t resist the homemade “fruit of the forest” ice cream.

The service, as always, was friendly and attentive.  What is interesting is that in spite of “la crisis, “ the restaurant was packed.  I guess people need to eat no matter what the economic situation.  And, you might as well eat well.

Marty took his usual afternoon nap.  Try as I might, I just can’t nap, so I went to Mercadona and picked up bread for stuffing and a few other things I needed.  How wonderful to be able to walk to the market in no more than 5 minutes.  The added benefit is I am developing some upper body strength schlepping all the bags home.  I guess I need to buy one of those carts I see everyone bringing to the market.    Perhaps tomorrow.

The rest of the day seemed to slip away.   At one point I was watching a cooking show and José Andres was making huevos revueltos con cebollas caramelizada.  (scrambled eggs with caramelized onions.)  It looked so good I decided to try my hand at caramelizing some onions.  It took a bit of time but, wow, the result was worth it. 

A little before 8:00, Marty headed out to a meeting of CIVAC, the local magic group, and I had the evening to myself.  People keep asking how I feel about his going out to meetings and leaving me home.  I love doing things with Marty, but treasure my alone time.   I had the perfect dinner of huevos revueltos for one and a good book. It has been a hectic first week in Valencia, so I really enjoyed my quiet evening.

 

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Just a Little Lunch with Friends

A rainy Sunday morning made it easy to hang around the house.  My first task of the day was to prepare my favorite Baked Cranberry Relish for Thanksgiving dinner, which I will be hosting.  The most difficult part of the recipe was finding fresh cranberries. I had read they weren’t available in Valencia, but as one who doesn’t like to be told, “It can’t be done,” I went on a search.  I managed to find two little boxes in the Mercado Central on Saturday.  The gentleman behind me was none to happy to see them disappear.  For those of you who like to cook, here is the recipe.  I have used it for so many years, I have no idea where it came from but it’s a keeper.

Baked Cranberry Relish

Baked Cranberry Walnut Relish

1 pound cranberries

2-1/2 cups sugar

1 cup coarsely broken walnuts

1 cup tart orange marmalade

Juice of 1 lemon or lime

Wash and drain cranberries, put in shallow baking pan and stir in sugar.  Cover tightly with lid or foil and bake in moderate oven (350 degrees) 1 hour.  Put walnuts in same oven to toast during last 10 minutes of baking.  Add walnuts and remaining ingredients to cranberries.  Mix well and chill.  Good with poultry or pork.  Makes about 4 cups.

By 2:00 the rain had stopped and we headed off to Pepe’s house for lunch.  On the way we stopped at Le Parisien, one of our favorite bakeries.  We picked up a fruit tart and in a few more minutes we arrived at our destination.

Before I had even crossed the threshold to his apartment, Pepe had placed a glass of Via Mágica in my hand and planted a kiss on my cheek. Via Mágica is a wine produced at the bodega of Pepe’s friend Benjamin Gomez.  It was first produced for the national magic convention in Valencia in 2008.

Then hugs and kisses from Sara and Gioco.  I must say, this is the “kissiest” place I have ever been.

The table was set with a bowl of olives, a plate of pulpo (octopus), another of tomato, onion and pieces of a regional fish much like bacalao (salt cod) all drizzled with a bit of olive oil. I nibbled for a while and then went to the kitchen to watch Pepe finish preparing the arroz meloso de bogavante (rice with lobster).  Arroz meloso is rice that is not as dry as paella, nor as liquid as soup. The dish is made with a rich fish stock that Pepe had prepared the day before.  In addition to lobster there was squid and pieces of absolutely succulent fish.  Pepe shared a few secrets with me but I am sworn to secrecy.  Needless to say, el arroz was amazing, as is everything that Pepe prepares.

Pepe

Arroz con Bogavante - in preparation

Arroz con Bogavante - ready to eat

Gioco's approval

All gone!

The fruit tart was a perfect end for the meal.  Then on to coffee and a little shot of rum.

La Tarta de Frutas del Bosque

At that point Gioco wanted to share the DVD of La Venganza de Don Mendo, the play he has been performing in.  Try as he might it would not project.  Never one to deterred, he then left to get his laptop and the other 20 copies to see if at least one of them would work.  At last he gave up and resorted to his laptop rather than Pepe’s big screen.  We watch for a little while and Sara gave a running commentary of the technical aspects of the DVD.  We all had a good laugh.

After a Skype chat with Jaime, Pepe’s son who is at the University in Liverpool, we headed out for a gin and tonic.  We strolled to la Plaza de la Reina and found an outdoor table.  How delightful to be sitting at an outdoor café in late November.  We chatted for a while longer and lunch was officially over at 7:30 PM.

Cathedral in La Plaza de La Reina

Marty

Sara and Pepe

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Jumping in

Remember when you were a kid and played jump rope?  It was that first jump in to get started that was always so hard.  Well, that is how I feel about blogging at the moment.  But at last I have jumped in.

Happy to be on my way

For those of you who do not know me, I am Susan Vida Kaplan, thus Vistas de Vida has become the name I use for my photographic work and the blog.  I have been happily retired for a little over 2 years.  This has given me the time to enjoy the things I love– travel, photography, cooking and creating new recipes and of course, sampling the food of the places we visit.  The we, by the way, is my husband, Martin Kaplan and me.  At the urging of my friends I am finally going to share my passions (except the husband) with anyone who is interested.

After 10 frustrating months of waiting, our Spanish visas were granted and we will be residing in Valencia, Spain.  This will be the our 4th extended visit here and the longest.  Valencia has truly become the city of my heart.  It is described as una ciudad muy acogedora (very welcoming city) and that is certainly true.  It has a charm and warmth that has quickly made me feel at home.  Given that I am from Los Angeles, the city of the car, it is a delight to get everywhere walking and being greeted by people along the way.

Our piso (flat) is in a very residential area only a 10-minutes walk from the center of the old quarter of the town and most importantly, the Mercado Central.  The Mercado Central is a stop on my route nearly every day so that is great.  The Mercado is the largest indoor farmer’s market in Europe and is a cook’s paradise. The choice and freshness of product is outstanding.  Over the years the vendors have become our friends and each return to Valencia has been greeted with hugs and kisses.

El Mercado Central

El Mercado Central - Interior

Amparo at the fruteria

Amparo at the fruteria

Tellinas, almejas and berberechos

Enough for today.  Tomorrow I’ll fill you in on the paella we’re going to have at Pepe’s house.  We have known Pepe, an excellent magician and cook, for over 15 years.   But, more about magic and Pepe later.

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